Hearth Pizza Tavern is on the southwest side of the corner of Hammond Road and Roswell Road, in the same strip mall as Whole Foods. I mention this because it’s not easy to see from the intersection, and traffic at that corner during lunch on a weekday is too brutal to have the luxury of making mistakes. Once in the parking lot, it’s on the far corner of the strip mall, with lots of brick and glass on the outside and is pretty good looking.

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It’s also good looking inside, with large tables, plenty of booths, and a good bar with a fine beer selection. I can’t drink during work hours but this would be a nice place to have a couple beers after work.  The booths were full and the tables too large for one person, so I sat at the bar.  This place features wood fired pizzas, and that’s what I had for lunch, a 8 inch “Cure”, which is a pizza with pepperoni, sausage, and also smoked bacon. The kitchen area is open to view, so you can watch your pizza being made and cooked, if you wish.

It’s a good looking pizza:

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I like this pizza, though yet again it’s a super thin crust pizza. There is an ongoing argument (see Blissful Glutton and others weigh in here), about what constitutes a real New York street pizza, and my memory of those (I worked in Philadelphia for 2 years, and New York was 90 minutes by train from where I lived) is a pizza with a crust roughly as thick as the tip of my pinky; say 8-10 millimeters. The crust at Hearth Pizza is about a 2 millimeter crust in the middle, more the thickness of a Saint Louis style pizza, such as the ones Imo’s Pizza serves. Now in casual conversations with ex East Coasters this ultra thin stuff is a more recent European influence, but in any event, it tends to guarantee two things. First, the crust will be crisp, and second, any amount of toppings will steam out the crust before you finish.

I have to say I do like the toppings on the Cure, but perhaps the bacon is overkill. Again, this is a good pizza, it’s just not in a style I prefer.

Final issue to talk about is service. Leslie of Blog Soup killed this place for poor service during her visit, and while I didn’t experience bad service at any time, it was as if they would turn it on and turn it off for periods of time.  It’s as if the staff is in their own little world for extended periods, and then a switch comes on, and they realize they have customers and then go and do things, like take orders and fill drinks.

Verdict: Good ultra thin crust pizza, service comes and goes. Worth it if you’re in the area. Recommended.

Hearth Pizza Tavern
5992 Roswell Road
Atlanta, GA 30328
(404) 252-5378

Hearth Pizza Tavern on Urbanspoon

SeriousEats.com has a good overview of different styles of pizza. Just, they’re not very analytical when it comes to how thin those styles are.

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