Agavero Cantina is a very attractive restaurant, brick and thick wood used freely throughout, plaster where appropriate, and in the main dining hall, a ring of tequila bottles above the tables. It’s roughly a half block north of the Beaver Ruin – Lawrenceville Highway (29) intersection, on the right as you’re heading north.

It’s a bit of a hard restaurant to place. It has Atlanta Tex Mex dishes, but perhaps only 1 of the 4 pages of the menu are devoted to that kind of food. They have a vegetarian section, for one, and most of the dishes seem to be Mexican, Tex Mex favorites, or cantina originals. So, unlike Frontera or El Jinete, trying to break free of that Atlanta Tex Mex mold, this one is, oh, 3/4 out of the shell.

I came here during lunch with my daughter, and we were served quickly and chips were rapidly brought to our table. We ordered queso fundido as an appetizer, and for entrees, I ordered the Acapulco cheese steak and she ordered a Mexican omelet.

Queso fundido is melted cheese with a healthy dose of chorizo, and Agavero Cantina’s version was not the soft white cheese you see often served. It was a melted pale yellow cheese, with a consistency closer to a semi-hard cheese. We ate bits of it with chips, and as the dish also came with pico de gallo and steamed tortillas, we put some in tortillas, along with the pico, and ate it that way too. It was good, but as the chorizo tended to generate fat over time, you had to eat it fast or forget it.

The Mexican omelet was stuffed with chorizo, salsa cruda, and it had enough bits of spicy green pepper to let you know it had a bite.  My daughter liked it a lot. My “cheese steak” was a tortilla filled with sauteed onions and sauteed strips of steak, with molten white cheese poured over the top. It was very good, reminiscent of the burrito al carbon served elsewhere.

Serving sizes, as noted elsewhere, were good and the cost pretty low. Service was very good.

Verdict: Recommended, Good to excellent food, good service, a welcome addition to the Mexican repertoire of Lilburn GA.

Agavero Cantina
4140 Lawrenceville Highway
Lilburn, GA 30047
(678) 924-1970

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