It’s tiny. 6 chairs and 9 stools are all packed in a small eatery that shares space with a convenience store. It has no outside seating. Prices aren’t cheap, but the serving sizes are more than reasonable. I bought their largest plate, and sat down to try what they cooked.
The greens were really good, and I wished I had more of them. The slaw was crunchy and good. The Brunswick stew I really liked, flavors well in balance.
In terms of the meats, the pulled pork was a solid version, very moist and tender with plenty of bark. The chicken was good as well. It was in the ribs and brisket that this place creates an impression. Chew on one of the ribs and it was amazingly tender, and then only when you’re close to finishing does the smoke flavor appear. It really creeps up on you.
The brisket has a sensibility you seldom find in American meals, but often encounter in Asian foods. Perhaps it just was a lucky accident, but texture differences in bites of this stuff could be mind blowing. From the soft crusty salty outside to the tender meaty bits of meat, to the occasional creaminess of the fat, the experience was more like eating a well prepared slice of duck from skin to fat to meat than anything else I’ve had over the past couple years.
Their two spicy sauces were good. I’d pour one or the other over the pulled pork, and then eat.
Impression? I’d hesitate to tell people to race down to a place this small, but deserving of the food buzz it’s been getting? Entirely. There are some really good plates of food here.
Heirloom Market Barbecue
2243 Akers Mill Road
Atlanta, GA 30339