The Viceroy is a restaurant completely under critical radar, yet at the same time it’s achieving impressive credentials on Urban Spoon. It’s one of these places that the media and bloggers have missed, but still has a reasonable following. It’s a bit too far for me to frequent at night, but approachable during lunch hour. That’s a shame, as Viceroy is largely a buffet place during the day. They have interesting options during the night, including a 4 step scale for heat in their foods.
It’s not easy to drive by the Viceroy. You have to enter the same shopping center in which J Alexanders is found, the Perimeter Village Shopping Center, and drive towards the back. Pass the Wall-Mart and eventually you’ll see the Viceroy. The entrance is neat, but otherwise a classic strip mall store front.
Once inside the restaurant is good looking. The waiters are neat and precise, dressed in white, and along one wall there are buffet choices. The buffet covers a lot of ground, in terms of eating, and can roughly be divided into 4 sections. The first section contains sauces. There are things like chutneys, chilis, mint sauces, raita, and hot sauce for those who need it. Next to the sauces are desserts. This section contained things like fruit firni when I was there. The third section has vegetable dishes. Pakoras, dal makhani, chana saag, and a vegetable biryani were items I recall in the vegetarian section. The final section began with a small oven containing tandoori chicken. It continued with a goat curry, a chicken makhani, and a vindaloo, as I recall.
If you order food, a nice basket of naan will appear on your table.
I liked what I ate here. The tandoori chicken was the best of the foods that I tried. It was rich in flavor, and I was surprised they could manage that, given the buffet setup. The fruit firni was delightful, and the rest of the dishes I’d rate as good. The vindaloo was very underpowered, but if you read the self description in Urban Spoon, they’re aiming for Atlanta style heat, not Indian style heat. If you want hotter dishes, come at night and order something “hot” or “Indian hot”.
As I came during lunch, I can’t tell you how good this place will be during dinner. But the lunch was good enough, and the service good enough, that if I lived in the area I would have certainly been back for dinner.
Verdict: Neat, flexible eatery with good service and good food. Recommended.
Viceroy Royal Indian Cuisine
4719 Ashford Dunwoody Road
Dunwoody, GA 30338