It’s official: I envy everyone working just off Oakbrook Parkway. I used to work there, but my job moved before this restaurant joined us. Kokai Thai Bistro is in the strip mall on the corner of Live Oak Parkway and Jimmy Carter, just east of I-85 and in the same spot that used to house Einstein Bagels and then later, Gaucho’s Grill. It’s cute outside, playing on the chick theme they use as their trademark, and more functional inside.

I’ve been looking for a Thai place to buy food on the way home, and this location is pretty accessible given my commute. This spot, new as it is, has had good reviews both from the AJC and Blissful Glutton. They emphasized a dish I hadn’t seen before, Thai boat noodles, and I found the descriptions intriguing. I found  some spare time, and went to check it out.

Inside, Kokai Thai seemed very amiable, very much a family affair, with aunts, uncles, small children all gathered around a table, chatting. I was quickly seated and given a menu. It’s a pretty menu, but it looks as if it was printed it with an inkjet, as some of the black ink was smudging inside the plastic page protectors.  But hey, it still worked, and I ordered chicken satay, beef boat noodles, and then later, a red chicken curry.

I liked it all. The chicken satay was good, with a lot of flavor, but a little oily. Far better was the red curry. Again, it had a lot of flavor, a decent amount of spice. The serving size was smaller, but it wasn’t expensive either. Almost everything on this menu, barring some hot pot dishes, is less than 7 dollars.

The star of the meal was the beef boat noodle dish. Again, it’s a smaller bowl of food, full of broth, noodles, meat, and a few curls of pork rinds. The broth is dark in color, opaque, rich in flavor. It has decent spicing, enough to let you know it’s there, not enough to overwhelm. The dish is served with a rack of things to add to the meal: salt, ground red pepper, red pepper sauce, and thin sliced green peppers. In all honesty, it didn’t need any of them.

I talked with an older man after the meal, presumably the owner, and he recommended another of his soups and proudly showed me his AJC review.  It’s just an affable place. When people entered, there were polite bows, lots of smiles, lots of conversation, lots of visits from table to table. If the point of it all is to make everyone not just full of good food, but to feel at home, I think Kokai Thai is succeeding.

Veridict: Friendly, family atmosphere with very good, nicely spiced food. The Thai boat noodles are excellent, as good as their reputation. Recommended, especially for the adventurous.

Kokai Thai Bistro
5495 Jimmy Carter Blvd
Norcross, GA 30093
(770) 409-9219

Kokai Thai Bistro on Urbanspoon