Taqueria Los Hermanos sits in the corner of an ‘L’ shaped strip mall on the northeast side of the intersection of Highway 29 and Indian Trail/Killian Hills. The main sign is dark these days, and as we’ve driven by, my wife was convinced that it was closed. Closer examination shows that not to be the case, and that’s a good thing, because this taqueria has some nice food, worth a stop if you’re in the area.
This is a restaurant whose Tucker location has been often reviewed, by Meredith Ford among others, and has been mentioned in best fish tacos in Atlanta lists. The Lilburn site was opened in 2003. When you enter there is seating on both sides of a bar. The restaurant is bright, shiny, perhaps just a little cramped. They serve a variety of beers and a machine to one side of the cash register has the label “Best Margaritas in town.” As I step in, waiters that have served me 3 years ago are still here. It has kept its staff, a good thing.
I have to order to go this time, for me and my daughter, and I order my favorite trio: a pastor taco, a carnitas taco and a fish taco. My daughter wants a burrito and I get the asada burrito for her. I occasionally try their other dishes (the marisco enchiladas aren’t bad), but I drift back to the tacos continually. Perhaps it’s just food imprinting. I had never had a fish taco before I ate one here. Maybe that’s coming back to me, like zombies in a Bruce Campbell film.
I was told it would take 20 minutes but it felt a lot shorter than that. The food traveled surprisingly well. The pastor taco, rich with a red pork filling, was quite good, as was the carnitas taco (pork again, but with a greenish hue and a very different flavor). The fish taco probably suffered the most from the trip but it was still tender and good. Of course, the hotter you can get it home, the better it will taste.
The salsa was good, the chips were crisp and dry. The salsa had a bright tomato flavor shot through with fresh cilantro, and as you ate it, hints of some pepper begin to settle in. They also provided two sauces, a mild salsa verde and a brown salsa with smoky chipotle overtones. There were a couple lime slices on top of a mix of cilantro, onion, red and green onion, and bits of cheese. Think of pico without tomato.
Where does this place fit in the ecosystem of Atlanta restaurant choices? I like it as a lunch spot, or an inexpensive dinner spot. 2-3 tacos are filling and most of the tacos are under $3.00 (fish taco is $3.75). It does so many of the little things well that it seems silly to me to grade it against a four star midtown Zagat rated restaurant. It’s not that kind of place. It’s a place to go with that cousin you know is on a budget, to take the friend who is missing a couple dollars, and yes, you know you can lend them a couple because your meal won’t be pricey either.
When I was working in Norcross, just east of I-85, I’d drive here for lunch sometimes. It was often packed, and I found over time, if I didn’t get the tacos, I was always angry with myself.
Verdict: Supreme tacos. Nice salsas. Very heartily recommended.
Taqueria Los Hermanos (Lilburn)
4760 Lawrenceville Hwy NW # B3
Lilburn, GA 30047